As China’s traditional spirits and premium wines grapple with declining consumption, a significant shift is under way across the beverage landscape. This three-part series examines the challenges faced by Maotai town as its once-coveted baijiu liquor loses its lustre, the impact of economic shutdowns on European wine imports, and the rise of craft beer as a budget-friendly alternative for consumers seeking quality without breaking the bank.
“I think many people are strapped for cash after the pandemic,” said store manager Gou Zihan. “They can’t afford the expensive stuff any more, so they stick to wallet-friendly options like beer.”
Yet even with the widespread belt-tightening, the glasses at Urbrew were not filled with the country’s lower-cost industrial brews. Instead, customers sipped complex wheat beers, India pale ales and experimental varietals with eccentric infusions such as passion fruit or hawthorn.
Most were priced at over 20 yuan (US$2.80) each, well over the per-unit price of 4 yuan a mass-market beer often commands at local supermarkets. For Gou’s customers, the quality and variety justified the mark-up.
